Hello everyone back home! I just found out that there´s an internet cafe here in my little town of Tunkas. It happens to be right across from the restaurant where we always eat, but I had no idea.
Our little town is not as downtrodden as I expected...but somehow, something I forgot to expect was how much it bothers me to see starving, mangey, fighting street dogs everywhere in Mexico. It seems like this town of 3500 has more dogs than people sometimes. Many are limping, most are too skinny. Every now and then you see a street dog that looks like he´s doing pretty well for himself, but you have to imagine he´s beating up plenty of others to get that much food. We aren´t doing anything with these dogs, vaccinating or sterilizing. I´m not sure why...maybe because they are a bit ferocious and scared...maybe because we are already lucky if people let us do their pet dogs.
Our schedule consists of the following: in the morning, we form teams of American vet students, Mexican vet students, and Tunkan high school students. We walk around assigned blocks and conduct an epidemiological study to see how many people raise chickens, geese, pigs, donkeys, bees, turkeys, etc... many do and we want to know if there are predator animals eating them and if they raise them for food or for selling. The UF Mexican-American professor that runs this program is an epidemiologist, so I assume we´re doing it for his research. The most fun part of it is to wander around rural neighborhoods, talking to the people about their lives and their animals. I´m consistently amazed at their willingness to come out of their houses to talk to us and tell us things as personal as their ages (some are in their 70s and 80s) and why they don´t want to raise certain animals (money, lack of space, etc). We agreed that Americans would be slamming their doors in our faces if we went house to house to ask them about their families ages and if a fox had ever eaten their pet chickens. Our high school students have been surprisingly helpful and, while at first I resented their presence b/c I wanted to be the questioner, I am glad they are helping us...there are still customs I am totally unaware of. Example...when approaching someone´s house here, I would´ve knocked on the door like any old gringo would: WRONG! How rude! You should stand out in the street at yell, ¨BUENAS!¨ until they come outside to talk to you...I never learned that in Guanajuato when I lived there. Maybe becuase it was less rural there.
In the afternoons, we walk around with different groups of the same configurations giving rabies vaccines to cats and dogs that belong to people. Some are glad to see us, others not so much. It´s probably a growing acceptance since our group comes every year; however, many are still not sure if they trust us. They say, ¨Well, as long as he won´t die from the vaccine¨ or ¨No, I can´t hold him still.¨ It´s also been nearly impossible to convince them to bring their animals to the town hall where the professors and older students are doing spays and neuters all day long. There are pets that are brought every day to be fixed, but their owners are very much in the minority. Also, I was told that it was only after the police chief brought in his two male dogs a few years ago to be neutered that others would finally bring in male dogs...before it was only females. It´s a macho issue to be sure.
Otherwise, we have a lot of downtime. I take a nap in my hammock every afternoon b/c we get 3 hours for lunch and I just can´t eat for that long. I read my current novel, ¨Middlesex¨and swing in the breeze of our open door. We hang out with the Mexican vet students at night and I´ve gotten a few to dance with me from time to time, when there is salsa music on at the restaurant. Everything I love about Mexico is still here: cute kids, beautiful flowers everywhere, friendly people that want to talk to you about yourself (after an initial icy period of assessment). Also, my Spanish has been incredibly more valuable that I anticipated. There are a lot of unilingual people on both sides, and those few of us that speak both are always strategically placed in groups to be the sole communicator with all involved. It´s also enhanced the experience of doing the surveys b/c I can get the jokes people make when they say that they do have two donkeys and then point at their sisters. Ha ha ha. It makes me laugh again right now.
Food has been only OK. We have a whole restaurant doing nothing but making our meals all day long, but the professor told them to give us very little variety so as to guard against sickness. However, this meant that the first two days I only ate fruit and bread for every meal. Finally, we started secretly asking for other things and now they have just sort of overridden the professor and given us stuff like eggs and tortillas with good salsa (we had to ask for spicy stuff too). So far, we´re all in good health and the food keeps getting better, although they did serve me vegetables in chicken broth today. I told them ¨sorry¨and gave it to someone else expecting to just go hungry for lunch; however, they promptly brought me some black beans a second later that really hit the spot. I have no idea where they came from...they must´ve been hiding them in back for just such an occasion. I do feel bad for being difficult, but I´d rather go hungry or eat chips for lunch than slurp down chicken broth...guess I don´t have to tell ya´ll that.
OK, I´d better get back to the restaurant. We´re having dinner soon and the ladies there are gonna teach me some traditional Mexican dances...they´ve figured out I like to dance after I forced one of their 10 years old sons to dance Cumbia with me. He didn´t really know how to dance much, but oh well...he´s a cutie.
Tomorrow and Thursday, we´re going to a satellite village to do more vaccines and then Friday we´re leaving town to visit the Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, before returning to Cancun to catch my early flight back home Sat. Then, it´s ¨Happy Nawruz¨! (Persian New Year)
I´ll have to send out photos when I get back...I have no way to upload them and my camera battery is almost dead now too.
Much love,
Shirin
PS Gabriel, please write your wife...she likes to hear from you every now and then! I´ll check again soon.